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Encyclopedia on Pets

This archive article (written 2009–2016) contains advice that may be out of date and is waiting for veterinary review. Please check with your vet before acting on it. About our articles

Encyclopedia on pet rabbit care
As a rabbit owner, it is important to know some rabbit care basics in order to create a safe, loving environment for the furriest member of your family. From diet to housing to bunny proofing, the articles below will help you provide the best possible care for your rabbit.

What to Feed Your House Rabbit

Just like people, bunnies enjoy a good meal. A nice mix of hay, pellets and fresh vegetables as well as fresh water will make your rabbit healthy and happy. An occasional treat can be given, but only in small quantities.
Pellets

These should be purchased so that they are fresh, as bunnies will turn their noses up at stale pellets. Look for pellets that are relatively high in fiber and low in protein. You will need to limit your rabbit's pellet intake as he/she ages. Pellets that are high in protein can lead to obesity and other health issues in rabbits.
Hay

Our rabbits prefer timothy hay, but there are other types available. Alfalfa and oat hay are other options. Alfalfa should be given less frequently to adult rabbits, because of the higher protein and sugar content. Hay needs to be readily available for your rabbits at all times. It is a good way for your rabbit to add fiber to his/her diet and ensure better health. Hay provides something healthy to quell your rabbit's urge to chew. Placing hay at one end of a litter box will encourage the use of the litter box.

When choosing hay, make sure it looks and smells fresh. Do not choose a hay that looks brown or moldy or no longer smells like fresh cut grass. Store hay in a dry place in a container that allows air flow to keep it from getting moldy.

Vegetables:

A varied assortment of vegetables should be a part of your rabbit's daily diet. When choosing vegetables look for something fresh and free of pesticides. Always wash your vegetables thoroughly before feeding them to your rabbit. Feed new vegetables in small quantities until you can judge if your rabbit reacts well to them. Do not feed rabbits the leaves from houseplants as many are poisonous to rabbit.

Your rabbit may enjoy some of the following vegetables:
  • Dandelion leaves
     
  • Romaine or dark leaf lettuce (no iceburg lettuce and no cabbage)
     
  • Carrot tops (carrots are high in calcium and should be given sparingly)
     
  • Broccoli leaves (stems or tops can make rabbits gassy)
     
  • Cilantro
     
  • Collard greens
     
  • Water cress
     
  • Kale
     
  • Mint
     
  • Parsley
     
  • Mustard greens
     
  • Dill
     
  • Bok choy

Water:

Fresh water must always be available to your rabbit. If you have a cage a hanging water bottle is a fine option. Many rabbits will also drink from a water dish. On a hot day you can drop an ice cube or two in your rabbits water dish. If your rabbit does not seem to be drinking enough water you can leave the vegetables fairly wet when you present them.
Treats

Everybody loves a treat now and then, but to ensure your rabbits health they should be given only occasionally. Do not feed your rabbit items high in carbohydrates like breads, crackers, pasta, pretzels, cookies, chips, or cereal. Although branded for rabbits, many commercially-sold bunny treats are high in fat and sugar, such as yogurt chips, and should not be given. Never give chocolate as it is toxic to rabbits.

Fruit is the best option for a treat, but again you should give it only in small amounts because of the sugar content. We try to purchase organic fruits that we know are free of pesticides. Like vegetables, be sure that they are thoroughly washed.

Some fruits that rabbits enjoy include:

  • Strawberries
     
  • Raspberries
     
  • Bananas
     
  • Pineapple
     
  • Apples (no seeds)
     
  • Raisins

Litter Train Your Bunny Rabbit:

One thing a lot of people don't realize is that most rabbits can be litter box trained, just like a cat!

Basically, what you want to do is take advantage of your bunny's natural tendency to deposit their droppings in just one or two places.

  • Start off by confining your bunny in just one room (even if you intend to give him the run of the whole house). A tiled floor is best to start (maybe in your kitchen)
     
  • Make sure that the litter tray is easily accessible on at least one side, but with high enough sides all around to prevent spillage.
     
  • For the litter itself, avoid clay and clumping brands (very toxic), as well as pine and cedar scented ones (proven dangerous in many studies). Personally I've always liked 'Yesterday's News' brand for it's absorbancy and ease of cleaning... but Cell Sorb, and Gentle Touch are also good.
     
  • A standard cat litter box works pretty well,... you might want a covered one if your bunny likes to push the litter out (rascals!)
     
  • Confinement and supervision is critical for the early stages. (It's much kinder to go through this for a few weeks early on in a bunny's life so that it can have a life time of roaming about and interacting with the family). So you should start in one room, and confine your bunny to its cage (with the litter box) for a bit until you learn where (s)he likes to do the business. If it's in the litter box - great! If not, no worries, just move the box over that way.
     
  • After you've achieved success in the cage, it's time to provide freedom. The key here is to do it only a little at a time, step by step (and be willing to go back a step if bunny makes a mistake).
     
  • So give bunny a limited area of freedom in the room, and make sure (s)he knows where the litter box is. (Spend some time getting bunny to come to the box with treats and praise).
     
  • Watch for signs that 'the business' is going to happen soon, get bunny to the box when it's going to happen, and give ample praise and treats when it does.
     
  • Just like you did in the cage, if bunny is making mistakes,... think of it as his or her way of telling you "the box belongs over here,... not where you put it"... and just move the box for bunny.
     
  • Sometimes you actually need to have two or three litter boxes in a larger space for a while... then you remove one at a time.
     
  • Bunny in the litterbox Punishment is NOT a good idea for mistakes with rabbits. It's better to simply withold the rewards and treats and praise until you get the behavior you want. (And use a lot of patience)
     
  • Some people have trouble because they're not really sure how to know when their bunny is about to go. Establishing regular feeding times, and other routines will help with this problem. (Mostly though, you'll get used to your bunny's signs if you pay attention for a few weeks)
     
  • Once your bunny is using the litter boxes outside of the cage, the idea is to slowly expand their allowed roaming area, until you can confidently see your bunny anywhere in the house without worrying about 'little presents' (and smells).

Handling Your Pet Rabbit:

The first and most important rule of picking up a rabbit is to never pick him/her up by the ears, the scruff, legs or tail. It is painful and can cause serious damage.

You wouldn't want to be lifted by your ears, would you?

The second rule to remember is that rabbits are fragile. They are quick indeed, but have weak skeletal systems.

Thirdly, rabbits do not always enjoy being picked up. Some of them will tolerate it, but many will struggle when you try to lift them. Therefore, picking them up can be a delicate business.

Sometimes it is necessary to pick up your rabbit, however, such as for nail clipping or vet checks. So here are some useful tips.

  • Approach your rabbit slowly and get down to his/her level. It will help put your bun at ease. Petting the rabbit will also have a calming effect.
     
  • When you feel confident your rabbit is ready to be picked up, scoop him/her up by placing a hand under the torso and pull your bunny close to your body.
     
  • Support the rabbit's hindquarters. Your bunny needs to feel secure in your arms.
     
  • If your rabbit struggles when being picked up, hold him/her firmly, but be ready to put him/her down. Your rabbit may think the better alternative to being held is to leap from your arms, but this can cause serious injury.
     
  • When putting your rabbit down, slowly squat down while holding your bunny close, and let him/her down gently.

Your rabbit may respond with a thump or may kick up his/her hind legs at you while scampering away. It's nothing personal, he/she just disapproves of being picked up.

Clipping Your Rabbit's Nails:

Since pet rabbits are not able to dig and wear down their claws inside your house or apartment, their nails will invariably grow too long. Keeping your bun's nails at an appropriate length is very important. Long nails may potentially curl into your rabbit's foot, or they may snag on something, causing great discomfort to your pet.
Clipping your rabbit's nails may seem a daunting task. And many rabbit owners elect to let their veterinarian handle it. Frequent vet visits can get expensive, however. So here is some advice on trimming your rabbit's nails yourself.

It is easier to trim your rabbit's nails quickly and effectively when the rabbit is properly restrained. If possible, ask someone to assist you and then wrap your bunny in a towel to reduce movement and to isolate each paw.

Diagram of a pet rabbit's claw:

Examine the claw to locate the quick, or the vein. Some rabbits' nails are quite dark, so you will need a small flashlight to see it. Cutting the quick will cause your pet to experience some pain, and he/she will bleed. So your objective is to cut just below the quick. If you do accidentally trim the nails too short, use flour or styptic powder to stop the bleeding. Some bunnies are startled by the sound of clipping. In these situations, you may consider simply filing the nails down, but this may be a longer process if your rabbit's nails are quite long.

Bunny Proofing Your Home:

In order to protect your house rabbit as well as your home you need to bunny proof. Rabbits love to dig and chew but need to do so in a nondestructive manner.

Providing many toys can help dissuade your rabbit from chewing on your belongings; when your bunny is occupied he/she will be less inclined to be destructive. Supervision is also key. Not only will your bunny love the attention, you can make sure your house doesn't fall apart.

Wire protectors:

Wires are one of the main targets of bunnies. Their sharp teeth can slice through your wires quickly, damaging your favorite lamp or worse, electrocuting your rabbit. It is best to cover wires with hard plastic sleeves or flex tubing. These can be purchased at any hardware, home improvement or electronics store. Even better is to keep all wires out of the reach of your bunnies.

When you look around the area your bunny will be residing in, do you see any places you don't want your bunny? Some bunnies can jump 36 inches or higher, and their curiosity brings them on top of shelves, chairs and desks.

They are also quite adept at squeezing into tight spaces, like behind your bookshelf or under your bed. You'll need to block off these areas. There are many options for this. Baby gates or puppy-pens work well, but ideally they should be made of metal, otherwise your bunny will chew his/her way through quite quickly. Watch out that the slats aren't too far apart, however, or else your rabbit will slip right through.

Bunnies are natural diggers and will dig anywhere they can, especially on your carpets. Any loose edges will be pulled and dug on until your carpet becomes a stringy mess. Tiles or untreated sea grass mats are good ways to cover areas that your bunny likes to chew. You can also arrange your furniture to cover spots your bunny frequently digs.
Rabbits are very curious creatures, Eating the contents of the recycle bin.

Molding is frequently chewed by bunnies. You can purchase plastic guards, but the best option is to give your bunny plenty of other chew options, such as natural wicker baskets and various other chew toys. See How to Deal with Chewing & Digging for more options.

Houseplants can be dangerous to bunnies. Many plants are toxic to your bunny. It is best to keep any plants out of the reach of your bunny. Poinsettia, holly, tomato leaves, and tulips are among the plants toxic to your bunnies.

By bunny proofing your house, you'll provide a safe environment for your rabbit and protect your belongings. This will make both you and your bunny very happy.

Housing Options for Your Pet Rabbit:

There are many options for housing your bunny indoors, including cages, custom enclosures, puppy-pens, or simply a bunny proofed room.

Free Reign:

We prefer to let our pet rabbits have free reign in a bunny proofed room. We chose to keep them in the room we use as an office. It is large with an open floor plan and generally speaking, one of us is always there to supervise. A section of the room contains their litter boxes and food dishes on top of a plastic chair mat to catch any spills or accidents. They enjoy the freedom of exploring at a leisurely pace or taking a top speed run whenever they choose to. We provide cardboard castles for them if they feel the need to get away for a while. This option may not be for everyone, especially new rabbit owners.

Cages:

Many owners prefer to keep their bunny in a large cage. This is fine provided the rabbit gets plenty of time of time outside the cage- at least a few hours daily. The options for cages are varied but require a few basics for the well being of your rabbit.

Cages must be large enough to accommodate your bunny. The more room the better. There needs to be room for your rabbit to move about and lie down, as well as space for food, water, litter box and toys. Never use glass aquariums as they are seldom large enough and do not have enough air circulation. It is also best to have a cage with a front door so your rabbit can come and go on his/her own.

Some people prefer cages with wire bottoms because a litter pan can be placed underneath. This is generally fine, but you need to include a piece of wood or cardboard for the bunny to stand/lay on. Standing on the wire floor alone can cause damage and discomfort to your rabbit's paws.
Rabbit in puppy pen

Puppy-Pens:

One other option to consider is setting up a pen in an area of your house for your rabbit. A puppy-pen can be purchased at many pet supply stores.They are large enough hold all of the essentials for a rabbit and give them room to roam. Pens are easy to move when needed.If you are concerned about your flooring or carpet, you can place a plastic chair mat or an old rug at the bottom of the pen. The type of puppy-pens general for sale do not have a top to them, so make sure you purchase one that is high enough that your rabbit cannot jump out. Puppy-pens are useful if you intend to eventually give your rabbit free reign in a bunny proofed room. Limiting your rabbit's space in the beginning will allow him/her to grow accustomed to the location of the food and litter box(es). By gradually increasing the space, your rabbit will not feel overwhelmed by a large area. This helps prevent accidents and lower stress.

Custom Enclosures:

Building a custom enclosure is also an option. Many stores sell wire storage cubes that can be customized into many arrangements.

This can be an easy option to create a large enclosure for less than you would spend on a large cage. Never build a rabbit enclosure with chicken wire because rabbits can chew the wire which may result in injury.

If you decide to build with metal, the slats should be fairly close together so your rabbit cannot get his/her head through. Otherwise, your rabbit may get injured or strangled.

There are many different housing possibilities to consider for your rabbit. The best option will depend on your living arrangements. But remember, rabbits are very social creatures, so choose a location in your home that won't leave your bunny feeling lonely and abandoned.

Building a Cardboard Castle for Your Bunny:

Building a cardboard castle for your pet bunny is an inexpensive way to keep him/her busy. Bunnies love to dig, chew, shred and arrange. These are all needs that a cardboard castle can address. A cardboard castle also provides a refuge for your bunny to escape the hustle and bustle of your house.

Materials:
  • Cardboard boxes
     
  • Scissors or Utility Knife
     
  • Additional pieces of Cardboard
     
  • Optional cardboard tubes or untreated wood

The ideal box is large enough for your rabbit to move around in, but not so tall that he/she cannot jump onto the top to play as well. Remove any excess tape from the box as it can get caught in your rabbit's fur. To create the most simple castle use your scissors or utility knife to cut two or more openings in the box. The openings should be appropriately sized for your rabbit.

To create a more elaborate castle you can line the bottom of the box with extra pieces of cardboard or an old phone book to give your bunny more to dig. You can add a smaller box or paper towel tubes for your bunnies to push and rearrange. Cut additional pieces of cardboard to fit the inner walls. Secure these pieces by pushing untreated sticks of wood through the walls.

Rabbit near a cardboard tube:

Create a larger castle by combining two or more boxes of different shapes and sizes. A large box can be joined to a smaller box to create two rooms for your bunny to hang out in. You can add additional levels to the castle by securely placing one box on top of another. Add ramps for your bunny to climb to the next level.

Use your imagination and soon you'll have made your bunny's new favorite plaything.


Taking Your House Rabbit Outdoors:

It is very tempting to take your house rabbit outside in the sunny weather, but be careful in doing so. Being domesticated means that rabbits do not have all of the skills to survive outside.

While taking your rabbit outside for short, structured and supervised visits, use the following tips:

  • Know the area that you are taking your rabbit. Many areas use pesticides on grass and weedkiller in gardens, both of which can harm or kill your bunny.
     
  • Predators are also a concern outside. Dogs, birds, raccoons and other creatures can harm your rabbit. Although they may not attack your rabbit, he/she may die from the stress of being frightened by a potential predator.
     
  • Heat is a big concern when taking your rabbit for some outside fun. Be sure that you recognize the signs of heat stroke.
     
  • Some plants may be poisonous to your rabbit
     
  • Bugs! Mosquitoes and flies may bite your rabbit and can potentially transmit diseases. Check your bun for ticks and other bugs after being outside.

We highly suggest that if you plan on taking your bun outside that you construct a rabbit run. Ideally, the run should have four walls with a top and bottom. A bottom will keep your rabbit from digging his/her way out and keep predators from getting in. A top will provide shade and keep owls, hawks and other airborn predators out. The sides should be made of thick welded wire that is not wide enough for your bun to get out or predators to get in. An inexpensive way to construct a run is to use custom wire storage cubes and zip ties. Then you can easily customize the size and shape of the run.

Another option is to purchase a puppy exercise pen and set it up outside. You will need to take extra care to supervise your bunny in an exercise pen to ensure your rabbit does not dig a hole below the panels or jump over the panels. You will also have to be on the lookout for potential predators that may harm or frighten your bunny.
Agouti dwarf rabbit in harness

You can also purchase a harness (or walking jacket) and a leash to "walk" your bunny. Basically, "walking" a rabbit means you follow your bun wherever he/she hops.

Your rabbit may not like wearing the harness, however, and may try very hard to remove it. Make sure the walking jacket fits snugly on your bun, so rabbit pets can not squirm out of it. Also note, your bunny rabbit may be frightened by the fact that you are constantly walking or running behind it. It may take some time for your bun to get accustomed to the idea.

The outdoors can provide a wonderful, exciting experience for your bun, as long as you take the proper precautions to keep your pet safe.